モッサン氏からオールデンの手入れについてメッセージをいただきましたので、いい機会なので日記に書いてみます。
最初に・・
あくまで私の方法は我流ですし、基本的に好きな仕上がりになれば靴本来の耐久性や素材特性のうんちくに関してはあえて無視してます。
自分の靴なのでよいのですが、お試しになられる方は自己責任でお願いします。
また、誰かに「それは間違っている！」と言われても、僕にフィードバック不要ですｗんなこたぁ関係ないのでｗ
靴磨きだけは、本当に正解が無いようで、仕上がりの好き嫌いもあり、諸説紛々が流れていて困ります。
私も達人と言われている方々に聞いたり見たりしてるのですが、
基本は「多量」の水分には弱いので、そこに気をつけるということは皆共通でそれ以外は、皆いろいろのようです。
１．ステインリムーバーについて
私はコードバンには使っていません。一つはやはり水分なのでかえってムラになる心配。あと、ユニオンワークスの中川氏が昔、「そもそも使う意味を感じない」といったコメントをしていたのでまぁいいかと。（カーフには使います。ベルルッティは色が落ちそうなので使いません）
２．クリーム
クリームは私は純正を使っています。
ブラシで塗りこみながら、最後は柔らかい布で拭きあげるという形です。
正直オールデンに関しては降水確率20%以上の日を除きながら、すべての保有靴を完全にローテするのが難しい状態であまりクリームでの手入れを熱心にするほど履けてないというのが大きいですが、、、
３．ワックス
ワックスはいろいろ使っていますが、カラー８（バーガンディ）に関しては純正、黒はキウイを使っています。
ホテルオークラの井上源さんはいろいろ使ったけどキウイがよいと言ってました。
ただ、僕はキウイの茶色の発色があまり好きではないので、茶色は純正か、気分でラ・コルドネリ・アングレーズを使っています。
４．具体的な手入れ
僕の手入れはもっぱらワックスのみになりがちです。
あまりしっかりした毛のブラシは傷になるので、柔らかい毛のブラシで埃や汚れを落とし、柔らかい布を人差し指と中指に巻きつけて少々水につけてそのままワックスをすくって磨きます。磨くというより「塗る」感覚です。
この仕上げ方法は、井上源さんの見マネですが、私はマットな感じよりコードバン（特にブラック）がヌメっ
とした感じの少し湿った光方をするのがたまらなく好きなのでそうしてます。
一般的には水は絶対に使うな！とか本によく載ってますが、あまり気にしてません。
基本的にワックスが柔らかい状態でないとあまりうまく光沢が出ないというのが私の腕での限界点です。
ただ、マットな仕上がりが好き！とかあまり光るとヤダな方も多いと思うのでその場合はワックスのみで磨く形がいいと思います。
こんな感じです。
オールデンユーザの方は大事にしてくださいね。でもやっぱり頑丈な靴なのではいてあげるのが一番の大事に仕方だと最近つくづく思います。飾るには無骨な靴なので。
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